Interesting approach to removing drivetrain

czarsmith

Member
So, I've started on a new project inspired by Tom Wells Zephyr and Doug's (my son's) Fairmont projects. It's a "rare" 1982 Mercury Zephyr Z-7 GS in incredible condition. Naturally, the 89hp 6cyl engine and suspension has got to go. The rear was tackled first and a '96 Mustang 8.8 rear has been installed with all new control arms, shocks including quads, sway bar, brakes, 2005 Bullet wheels and tires, etc.

Now that that's done I proceeded to disconnect everything in preparation for removing the engine, transmission, K-member, suspension, etc. Now, not to spoil the fun, watch this video of my special technique:


The time lapse covers one hour thirty minutes.
 
Looks like he hasn't seen your question, Phil. I'll answer for him. He's going to put a SBF 347 in it.
 
That is a Kool way to take it out ... I'd seen it done on Mopars before but not Fords!
 
Here's the install of the new 347 and attached AOD transmission all at once. I'm happy to report that we all finished the job with all limbs still in tact. It took us a little while to figure out how to get the dolly back out since we couldn't get the transmission cross member attached at first. Once we figured that out it moved pretty fast. It is funny watching the video and seeing how much time was spent head-scratching :).

 
Just curious, what are you going to have to do with the gauges? Are you replacing them or futzing with the stock ones to make them work?
 
Doug,

That was why I showed Herb our "front bumper strap" trick. Nothing in the way beneath the car. ZephyrNoEngine.jpg
Left side (out of photo) is the engine crane with a 3" wide nylon strap around the front bumper. Worked like a champ! We used two floor jacks to get at the bolts underneath. Then raised the bumper and Presto!

Tom
 
Doug,

That was why I showed Herb our "front bumper strap" trick. Nothing in the way beneath the car. View attachment 390
Left side (out of photo) is the engine crane with a 3" wide nylon strap around the front bumper. Worked like a champ! We used two floor jacks to get at the bolts underneath. Then raised the bumper and Presto!

Tom
Indy -

I think that your install technique is what inspired Dad to give it a shot this way. Our problem was getting the dolly he made out from under the transmission after we realized that we couldn't attach the cross member right away. Once we figured out a way to use a strap to hold it up, we were able to correct the trans mount pretty quickly and have it done.

Phil - not sure what he's going to do with the gauges. It actually isn't difficult to get the stock gauges working because all there is is a speedometer and a fuel gauge. So the rest can be Sunpro add-ons. That's what I did in my car until I eventually replaced it all with custom Autometer gauges with light blue faces to match the car. Here's a picture of my new ones (before I got the fuel gauge working and before I realized I had a wiring problem causing my alternator not to work).
oJKWpI-sv2fpKZD1VC2dKiyA2_OAKAoJvG5LaoOltlbmjQQOBOj9huyUPwrs6ERkdRl3PcV-rqSO8yLqePHAisfKvCtJ9adrJJLznwgDvIZuzl-28oPMa25N5yGNxd64sW1qiLRenb8DktlHrO8Son_rTQb5CM4Chq1EVaks4JRf4StelrAWqeT1xUb-8ZL5fSZQ213aOdni2tTHASoR8oFsJNC_7Zh0F3sG1r08I_3AN1euAuUtUAJ2_7nen0fcCkG3cGVnmr5q7inYUAySSqA3JbavQs4mrcaspOEHUoKRFEzEzMM2Knni2j7R9RKEPKXD6kdako-0XqQECOyC3bA0OzednV7GThmAyjllnOu7ZfRRYOepzhTfH0_ghL0zxcF_kkElMNbxNjvR0kU4e-C5yusx6yajUSeAW_KvWSADI7UFoO5hAX9GVnTMbAwCN1J5me9OmYz9Uq1DwcdR9kL-IcDgRqS1_ZMKnoyNUU8GV12lRmmxdwRPbOav_rsWhB0HdtA__QYzQ2DIG-AX9F7jibXZ0gw1B-dtUTJByom4ewwIA8gvRIEtYCiRBbyWJ0-67uoLlzuT73gZ8Ko-f29cNQeh7jW-wx2D14Myrp0=w1639-h922-no
 
So, now that the fun part is done - dropping the drive train out the bottom and putting the new one in the same way, I hope to have it standing on four wheels shortly. Initially I'll use the stock gauges and idiot lights and hang some add-on gauges under the dash. Then I'll make a dash like Doug did for his Fairmont with Autometer gauges. The initial goal is to do what's necessary to get it running and driving. Front brakes will be Mustang Cobra 13" rotors and calipers. Rears are StopTech 12" rotors with stock calipers Koni shocks all around including the quads. Very large sway bars, a shock tower brace, and adjustable rear control arms will help to enhance the handling. A Panhard Rod will be installed if I can make it fit. Rear gears are 3.55's and driveshaft is custom aluminum unit from the Driveshaft Shop. Transmission is a "Performance Automatic" beefed up AOD with a 2,500 rpm stall converter. Engine is a 347 based on a 5.0 stock block with Scat rotating assembly, AFR 185 heads, and a Comp Cams XE282HR camshaft - intake: 232 degrees/.565 lift, exhaust: 240 degrees/.574 lift, 112 degree lobe separation. Looking to install a Hose Wizards air conditioning system. Also going to try to adapt the OE cruise control that was on the car originally. In keeping with the not being too obvious theme only the wheels/tires will hint at this not being quite what it looks like. The exhaust will be a single exhaust (though it will be a 3" pipe) exiting in the stock location behind the driver side rear wheel. It will have a little deeper sound with a Magnaflow muffler. Hoping that when it's done it will tip the scales at less than 2,750 pounds. Probably will need a subscription service for rear tires. Another goal is to run it at Cumberland next year.
 
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