For the last two days ... I fiddled with the final placement of the windshield. One of the most tiresome tasks in the build, the installation of the windshield is also one of the most frustrating. The bodies are definitely not symmetrical and FFR states in the instructions that the windshield frames vary depending on their vendor source. These factors combine to cause an iterative process of mounting, measuring, removing and adjusting the holes in the body to get the the windshield in place. Ideally this is a two person job ... but in this case I had to improvise a little. I used a cargo strap with rubberized hooks to hold the windshield at the desired angle. The ratchet on the strap allowed for minor incremental changes to the angle of the windshield to the body. On Friday before starting this process, Craig and I watched the Build School video on the process of installing the windshield posts on to the frame around the windshield. The chrome plated brass screws into the brass plate in the windshield frame was the delicate part; too much torque and the brass just strips out. So far so good; but some filing of the screws to get the posts completely secured to the windshield and prevent them from cracking the glass. I am also checking with Whitby Motors to get their SS replacements for the brass plates in the windshield. Using their steel plates with SS screws from MC will reduce the chances of striping the screws. The screw part is JIS 18-8 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Head Screws, M5 x 0.8 mm Thread, 8 mm Long, packs of 10. I called them yesterday and they are sending me the inserts and the screws ... There are several constraints or parameters from all those that have done this before me: 1. Requirements for installation of the FFR Premium soft top ... the distance from the top screw on the frame to the rear of the door needed to be 27" (Note: I have also seen where the final angle between the windshield posts and the cowl should be 53 deg ... 2. The body should not (meaning shall not) touch the windshield metal ... meaning only the rubber seal should touch the cowl and the windshield posts SHOULD NOT touch the body where they penetrate to the frame; and, 3. Don't stress the glass by putting pressure on it from the installation of the posts ... use shims and or gently twist the brass posts so that they fit on the frame without imparting any pressure on the frame/glass. The ends of the posts tend to duck feet out as you look forward; not always matching up with the frame. Here are the results so far ... PS Even this is not necessarily the final position since there is a little leeway in the mounting ... the frame has 1/2" openings and the windshield is drilled for 3/8" bolts. Therefore it seemed to me the best thing was to get the hole locations on the posts marked such that there was sufficient room for the holes ... For example here is a poor photo of the problem I initially had on the PS post. It is a hard to see but the left or bottom hole would only be incomplete going through the back of the windshield post. DS For me the most useful parameters seemed to be the distance from the hood edge to the rubber on the windshield and the distance from the top screw of the post to the rear of the door body side. I am worried that the distance from the first top screw to the back of the door is different by about 1/4". As part of the iterative process of fitting the windshield I did goon up the DS holes in the body ... The inside of the body is almost touching the post so I will need to expand it a little while filling in the outside ... A LOT! I have not actually pulled the windshield to drill the holes in the posts yet so if I am doing something way wrong please comment. The goal is to get the windshield finished on Wednesday.