Floor Jack?

mtsretire55

Michael T. Shade
Member
#1
Ok I am attempting my first upgrade on my SPF Mark 3 Roadster. I have a very old craftsman floor jack that still works fine. However In looking under the car at the frame rail I see the tube steel (square) is very narrow and much smaller than the diameter of the floor jack I have. I see I have to be very careful to stay on the frame rail so as not to crush anything else. So I am looking for a new floor jack and would like a few suggestions on what you guys are using. I am looking to jack up the rear end to work on the suspension mounts and shocks. I was looking for a jack that had a smaller footprint at the cradle where the jack touches the frame to lift the car in the air. I have a small garage and no room to add a serious/expensive lift.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks Mike
 

ShadowDo

Franck
Member
#2
For my Factory Five, I've been using the 1.5T Racing Racing Floor Jack from Harbor Freight with some Jack stands.
It has a low profile, can jack front and back, but also from the pumpkin.
I wasn't planning to use it much, but did use it quite a bit now changing the shocks all around, bleeding the brake, change the oil etc...
At 59.99 when on sale, it will last what it will last, but happy so far.
 

phileas_fogg

John Sitton
Member
#3
Like Franck, I'm using the 1.5T HF jack. I've had my car on and off jack stands countless times during the build. The jack works well.


John
 

Doug Smith

Contributing Member
Member
#4
I also have a 1.5T jack (not HF but sounds similar to the ones described above). However, with my SPF, I actually jack it up by the side. I'll put jack stands under that side then jack up the other side. I find that easier to do as the front is really low and tough to get to. The back doesn't have much room on the frame with the tie down hook there. It doesn't take long to get the entire car off the ground and I find it handy.
 

mtsretire55

Michael T. Shade
Member
#5
Thanks guys. I see I can use the floor jack I have by using a small 1" x 1" piece of wood between the floor jack cradle and the frame rail. Its small with not much surface area on that frame rail whew!! I can see it has to be dead on the rail or either the fiberglass gets cracked or the underside plating gets bent.
 

Scott Harrison

"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"
Staff member
Contributing Member
Member
#6
If you jack it from the ends, you have less chance of hitting any body panels. But you may not have room in your garage.

At the front, I usually go in at an angle and catch the frame somewhat off center.

At the back you might be able to go straight in. Also, you might want to glue a piece of rubber or carpet to the pad.
 

Bill Magruder

Contributing Member
Member
#9
Thanks guys. I see I can use the floor jack I have by using a small 1" x 1" piece of wood between the floor jack cradle and the frame rail. Its small with not much surface area on that frame rail whew!! I can see it has to be dead on the rail or either the fiberglass gets cracked or the underside plating gets bent.
I agree with the jacking procedure described by Doug Smith. It is right out of the SPF Owner's Manual. To avoid any damage to both the frame and body parts, I place a hockey puck on both the jack and jack stands. Problem solved.
CB
 

Doug Smith

Contributing Member
Member
#10
One thing I thought of is that jacking from the side might not be as convenient if you have a roadster with under-car exhaust. The exhaust might get in the way of accessing the frame rails like Bill and I do.
 

mtsretire55

Michael T. Shade
Member
#11
Yes sir that is the situation I find myself in. I have to get the front up to get to the rear end frame. The advise on the blog here about a low profile Jack was very helpful. I bought an Arcan xl2t extended length 32" long jack that can get it done. Sorry Craftsman you are retired now.
 
#12
I have undercar exhaust. I just drive the car up on four 2 x 8 pieces of lumber and get enough lift to slide the floor jack underneath.

I can't afford a hydraulic lift.
 

mtsretire55

Michael T. Shade
Member
#13
Joe thank you for the feedback. On the rear end frame rail the twin mufflers I have are just under it and taking up almost all the room I would have had to get to that frame rail center point. The cradle for my floor jack is 3" diameter and the gap between the mufflers is about 2". That would be the center point at the toe hook. So not enough room to get at that center point in the rear between the rear tires. I am looking for another spot to get to, but the 3" exhaust I have is blocking my access to the frame rail just forward of the rear tires towards the center of the car. That means I have to stay on the outside of the exhaust closer to the outside of the car. A lot of the frame rails in this area have fiberglass bonded to them and that does not leave much real estate to work with. I am looking at the frame rails around the rear tires to get a bite on that do not have any fiberglass bonded to them. It appears that I will need a combination of both an extended length floor jack, ramps of some kind and a modification on the rear frame with a smaller pond of contact between the frame rail and the floor jack cradle. I am even looking at jacking the front end first, placing the tires on ramps, then getting under the rear to jack up the rear end once I can get farther under the car to reach the interior frame rails. Sorry for the run on.....................
 
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