Need advice on using valve spring compressor for 2 springs

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#1
I need some advice on any tricks you have to compress the second valve spring with this compressor. The jaws on the spring compressor aren't long enough to grab the inner spring. I have shaft mounted rockers, so I can't use the lever type for stud mounted rockers.

Here's what I have:
IMG_9498.JPG
 

InProcess

Ken Caniglia AKA Superfly
Contributing Member
Member
#2
They have a C clamp looking spring compressor that should work. Ask John Bishop if he has one.
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#4
Can someone message me John Bishop's cell? Usually Scott is the one that organizes us when we meet.
 

InProcess

Ken Caniglia AKA Superfly
Contributing Member
Member
#6
Would assume your shaft support bolt holes are not behind valves. So can you use a piece of flat stock to bridge 2 supports, and then use that as a fulcrum for a lever spring compressor ?
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#7
Maybe I can make the lever style work using the shaft support stands. I'll go take a look at that.
 

usfkdave

SPF 2152
Member
#8
I have a better tool - you are welcome to borrow it...Throw that other compressor away before you hurt your springs, your heads or yourself...Some of these springs can be near deadly when compressed with closed pressures into the 250+ range and you need to go quite a bit more than that to get keepers to seat properly.

For on the engine valve train work the Moroso 62371 Heavy Duty Valve Compressor is my go to never fail compressor. I also have the air hose and spark plug setups for most engine heads. Just ensure valves are closed - piston at TDC and apply around but not more than 20lbs of air to cylinder to keep them shut - normally the seals will do the job etc and if your careful you really do not touch the valve stem until releasing the keepers.... Never failed on probably more than 50+ solid flat tappet cam break ins when replacing inner spring after break in. Gentle on you and the valve train. Need it back by November as my shop and my bikes and cars including the Superformance headed to the Big Island soon... IMG_0102 (1).jpg
 

usfkdave

SPF 2152
Member
#9
I have a better tool - you are welcome to borrow it...Throw that other compressor away before you hurt your springs, your heads or yourself...Some of these springs can be near deadly when compressed with closed pressures into the 250+ range and you need to go quite a bit more than that to get keepers to seat properly.

For on the engine valve train work the Moroso 62371 Heavy Duty Valve Compressor is my go to never fail compressor. I also have the air hose and spark plug setups for most engine heads. Just ensure valves are closed - piston at TDC and apply around but not more than 20lbs of air to cylinder to keep them shut - normally the seals will do the job etc and if your careful you really do not touch the valve stem until releasing the keepers.... Never failed on probably more than 50+ solid flat tappet cam break ins when replacing inner spring after break in. Gentle on you and the valve train. Need it back by November as my shop and my bikes and cars including the Superformance headed to the Big Island soon... View attachment 1340
woops - did not read the first post - shaft rockers...I have one for Mopars that works with shafts...
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#10
I spoke to John Bissel - I didn't realize that the lever style spring compressor (which I also have - actually both are Scotts...) could also be used with shaft rockers. I need some longer bolts tomorrow to allow me to position the shaft higher, but looks like it should work and be easy to do. I do have and air compressor connected to the spark plug hole.
 

InProcess

Ken Caniglia AKA Superfly
Contributing Member
Member
#11
Bissells the man O0 I remember making a clip for the lever type to use with a shaft valve train in the old days. Make sure the piston is at its tdc. I did one once where it wasn't and the air pressure, probably too high, pushed the piston down and the valve dropped. You can also try the old rope in the spark plug hole which is safe, but may allow the valve to drop a little making it harder to install springs.

Sound like you went with flat tappet cam. You know they make roller cams now ::)
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#12
I ended up using the rope method as I hard a hard time getting one of the valves to stay up with air pressure. I was also able to use the lever spring compressor on the underside of the rocker shaft. There is a curved out area on top of the lever for that purpose, which I didn't know. Bissel set me straight. So valves are done.

BUT

I think I may have a problem. When I put the rockers back on the 1-4 cylinders, the exhaust pushrod on #1 is loose. I only removed 1 pushrod at a time when I was doing the valve springs, so I know they went back in the right holes. I assume this means I wiped a lobe/lifter on breakin? Any other possible explanation? :(
 

Jim Harding

Contributing Member
Member
#13
Solid or hydraulic lifters? If solid, you should feel “loose” if lifter is on base end of cam lobe, (Valve tip/rocker arm clearance). If hydraulic, should have no play at all......and of course the standard comment, push rod correctly located in lifter, rocker arms correctly fit on shaft and stands correctly torqued down
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#14
Solid lifters. Push rod is in the right hole (I removed them one at a time when I did each spring). Even when valve is fully closed there is a ~1/4 gap between push rod and rocker. Interestingly, I cut open the filter and it's pretty clean. I tried to pull the lifter up through the push rod hole, but can't get it. I am going to try to take a look with an inspection camera.
 

InProcess

Ken Caniglia AKA Superfly
Contributing Member
Member
#15
Supposedly you can remove flat tappet lifter in those motors without taking intake off. Recommendation was to remove all kids from the premises though :coolsmiley:
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#16
Supposedly you can remove flat tappet lifter in those motors without taking intake off. Recommendation was to remove all kids from the premises though :coolsmiley:
I know others that have been able to do that. I spent a fair amount of time trying to get it out with a magnet. Couldn't do it. I have no idea if my particular lifters will fit up the push rod holes on my particular intake. I'll try the inspection camera later today..
 

InProcess

Ken Caniglia AKA Superfly
Contributing Member
Member
#17
They make a lifter extraction tool that you can loan from auto parts stores. Just remember not to drop it. Good luck O0
 

dcdoug

Doug Wheeler
Contributing Member
Member
#18
I wanted to update that I figured out my problem last Friday using an inspection camera. The lifter had pulled all the way out of the bore and was lying on it's side. Using the magnet attachment for the camera, I put it back in the bore and all is good now.
 
Top